WARRAWEENA STATION: A Hidden Gem for Remote Camping, Mine History, and 4WD Adventure

My visits to the stunning Flinders Ranges in South Australia have always been to the eastern side to explore the popular tourist spots of Wilpena Pound and Arkaroola, but my last visit I decided to explore the western region of the range.

My journey started at the town of Hawker, about 400km north of Adelaide. Known as the hub for the Flinders, Hawker is the last stop for supplies both now and when it was settled just before 1850. Its position was strategic when settled as it was near the rail line and where tracks and roads run along ridge lines and through the gaps of the mountains that allowed access to the eastern fringes.

Back in the day, the Hawker area was known for some of the best wheat in the country and the town boasted 4 flour mills. The rail line was a vital connection for the area and further north, during WW11 nearly 20,000 servicemen plus loads of equipment passed through Hawker on their way to Darwin.

The next decade saw floods and droughts ravish the area, and eventually the line and businesses closed, today the town thrives on tourism and the passing trade. Around Hawker there are plenty of abandoned buildings that dot the landscape when the town thrived.

Heading north along the Outback Highway with the spectacular ranges to my right, the afternoon sun highlighted the highs and lows of the ruggered mountain range, my goal was 125km to the north for the turn out to Beltana and then eventually Warraweena station.

Beltana dates back to the 1850s when settlers came to the area, just 10 years after explorer John Eyre passed through the area naming several mountains. For several years Beltana was the starting point for expeditions heading north into unexplored regions for the adventurous explorers. It was a slow start for the town, but when the railway was built in 1881, the town swelled as it opened up new areas and gave access to local mining operations.

A dam was built nearby for the steam engines and a grand station was constructed with a permanent station master. Unfortunately, most people found the train was too expensive to travel on, and the rail service was mainly used for freight and miners. Nearby at the Leigh Creek coal mine, the demand was so intense from 1950 that the original line was deemed to step for the massive coal trains so a new line was built to the west of the town across flatter country. By 1956, the line, its staff and infrastructure were shut down. The town of Beltana eventually became a ghost town, losing both mining operations and the railway.

Today the town has been refurbished with multiple buildings being restored, there are over 30 permanent residents, it’s listed as a state heritage town and welcomes visitors to wander around the town's 22 buildings and explore the history. Picnic areas, camping sites and walking trails are mixed through this amazing outback settlement that once was a bustling town.

My end goal was still another 30km to the east of Beltana into the remote and isolated Warraweena Station. The station is located where the Flinders and Gammon ranges meet and makes for a stunning drive across barren landscapes and through gorge country. The drive eastward towards Warraweena has long stretches of road passing between ancient rock formations on either side, crossing over rough dry creek beds until you enter the station's boundary.

Not long after you enter, ruins of an old copper mine start to appear on the mountain side. This is Sliding Rock copper mine where pure copper was found in 1870. With a steady population at nearby Beltana, miners moved to the new copper mine and in 1872 a township was surveyed and called Cadnia, that catered for nearly 500 people.

The mine thrived for nearly 10 years until massive flows of water were tapped into that continued to flood the mine. Steam powered pumps just couldn’t keep up dispersing the water out of the shafts, where eventually the mine was abandoned and soon later the town closed. Today it’s possible to wander around the old mine site where chimneys still stand, there are buildings and foundations to view, and sections of the mine can be found, there are also two old cemeteries where early graves date back to 1870. Ironically, today the water in the mine is used for a backup supply for the nearby town of Leigh Creek.

Driving further into Warraweena Station and to the main homestead area, the caretaker is only too happy to help you with accommodation options and what to do while at Warraweena.

If you like a little luxury, there’s the Shearers quarters and the Shepherds hut near the main homestead where you can base yourself for a few days. If you're dragging an off-road camper in, there are powered sites and also bush sites scattered through the station. Most of these have long drop toilets, and it's ok to use the showers near the homestead. There’s a multitude of bush sites that have different aspects over the property and well away from each other for total solitude.

Around Warraweena there’s an array of different 4WD tracks for different skill levels, some head out to remote lookouts, others head up dry creek beds to hidden water holes, and the longer ones head to either Old Warraweena or out to old outstation huts.

The sheer ruggedness of this area is next level, where it's hard to comprehend even trying to breed sheep in the harsh landscape of the ranges. Warraweena has shifted all livestock off the station and now runs as a tourist destination and a state conservation park. They have several challenging 4WD tracks that include Cockatoo Loop track and up to Mount Gill where you’ll have superb views across the Flinders and Gammon Ranges.

For a fee, it's possible to head out of Warraweena south to Blinman along ‘the old copper track’. This cross country trek was used back in the late 1800s and linked three major copper mines and was the main thoroughfare for many years. Today it’s an isolated and remote track, not suitable for towing, it's not maintained and can be challenging at times with severe washouts and through old creek beds. The track follows several creek lines and over stunning ridges before heading into Moolooloo Station, and where you can explore the Nuccaleena mine ruins.

Nuccaleena had a small township near the mine but didn’t quite last a decade due to its remote location and trouble with transporting the bags of copper out to the real world. Leaving the mine is a short drive across Moolooloo station tracks and into Blinman.

Exploring the western side of the Flinders with its 150-year-old history, unique station stays and remarkable rock formations that are some of the oldest in the world, need to be on everyone's bucket list at least once

 WHERE TO FIND WARRAWEENA STATION

Warraweena Station is tucked in between Ikara-Flinders Ranges and the Vulkathunha-Gammon Ranges, about a 2 hour drive from Hawker in South Australia. The road east to Warraweena Station off the Outback Highway is unsealed and heads into remote and isolated territory of the station for nearly 50km. This road passes the historical and heritage listed old township of Beltana and the old copper mine site of Sliding Rock.

THINGS TO DO AROUND WARRAWEENA

Warraweena boasts some of the best camping in the Flinders ranges, there are 4WD tracks to explore, amazing scenery with exhilarating walks, there are old ruins to wander around, the old Copper mine site of Sliding Rock. Out of the station's boundary lines, the amazing history of Beltana has to be seen to be believed, and for the more adventurous, the old Copper track that runs cross country from Warraweena south to Blinman wanders across some pretty remote and isolated country.

OTHER INFORMATION

Hawker to the south is the last port of call for supplies and fuel. Warraweena has a website ( http://www.warraweenastation.com.au/things-to-do/  ) where camping, directions and things to do can be found. History facts on Beltana can also be found online ( http://www.beltana.org.au/ ), as well as links to camping solutions in the area. Warraweena is only open from March thru to November and closed during the summer. You’ll need to be fully self-sufficient for your stay at Warraweena and manage your fuel consumption if you tackle the stations' range of 4WD tracks, showers are available at the homestead. Also on the SA website at https://southaustralia.com/products/flinders-ranges-and-outback/accommodation/warraweena-station-conservation-park